NER / LNER / BR Y7 040T (several sold into industrial service)
A little venture into Standard Gauge modelling. I've always been a fan of the Y7 (being from the North East) and have fancied one for a little while after seeing the preserved pair at Tanfield and Beamish. Looking at 4mm drawings showed it'd be a similar size/price to previous locos I'd produced, but I'd need to make my own chassis.
If you want background information, I'd recommend the LNER encyclopedia. There are lots of excellent photos on Flickr and elsewhere. These small locos were built for shunting in tight spaces such as docks, and were built in several batches over 30 odd years. They lasted until quite late on, with several being sold into Industrial service (indeed the two preserved examples both worked at collieries after their mainline careers ended).
The 3D printed model comes with the body and chassis block, you need to add wheels, motor and gears. I will list the other parts I've used later on. Hyperlinks are in RED and will normally open a link to the item or supplier in question.
Please read through these instructions before you start the model - I mightn't always make sense, but there's nothing too difficult here, and I've tried to put a few photos in to illustrate what needs doing.
If you want background information, I'd recommend the LNER encyclopedia. There are lots of excellent photos on Flickr and elsewhere. These small locos were built for shunting in tight spaces such as docks, and were built in several batches over 30 odd years. They lasted until quite late on, with several being sold into Industrial service (indeed the two preserved examples both worked at collieries after their mainline careers ended).
The 3D printed model comes with the body and chassis block, you need to add wheels, motor and gears. I will list the other parts I've used later on. Hyperlinks are in RED and will normally open a link to the item or supplier in question.
Please read through these instructions before you start the model - I mightn't always make sense, but there's nothing too difficult here, and I've tried to put a few photos in to illustrate what needs doing.
CLICK HERE TO BUY FROM MY SHAPEWAYS SHOP (00 Version)
Extra Parts:
Most of these I sourced from Alan Gibson Workshops. I rang up and ordered them at 3pm, they came the next day! can't fault that kind of service!
From Alan Gibson:
2 pairs (4 wheels in all) G4842E LNER Y7 wheels
4M42A (crankpin set for 4 wheels)
4911 NER tapered buffers (or you can get LNER pattern ones, as fitted to some of the later builds)
4M637 Smokebox door dart x2 (you only need one, so you'll have a spare for when you buy a second Y7)
4M131 LBSC A1/A1X Terrier Coupling Rods (the Y7 has a 6' wheelbase, the terrier's is 6'+6', so just cut half the rods off. Gibson do supply variable length coupling rods which you can build to 6' as well, but I thought the terrier rods was the easiest option).
Other Parts:
Romford 1/8" frame bearings, and the holes in the frames are the correct size to take these as a tight push fit. they're pretty widely available (Mainly Trains for example have them).
0.5mm brass rod (used for handrails and sandpipes)
0.8mm brass rod (used for pipes to clack valves)
0.45mm handrail wire
00 handrail knobs
phosphor bronze wire for pickups.
scrap of PCB/copperclad strip for pickups
scrap brass etch/fret
Superglue - I use Screwfix's own brand as it is very cheap, works well and comes in big bottles. Feel free to use posh branded stuff though if you'd rather.
Gears/Motor
I used a chinese made 10x12mm (24mm long) gearmotor as they're cheap and have a high reduction. My prototype has a 298:1 gearmotor, which is probably overkill in the slow running department, but you can get the same size gearmotors with a variety of ratios (I have a more sensible 51:1 one on order). There are several suppilers of these, just make sure you get a 12V one. Mine came from fastcomponents on eBay and cost about £6 for a pair. They list them as 12mm miniature gearmotors.
Most of these I sourced from Alan Gibson Workshops. I rang up and ordered them at 3pm, they came the next day! can't fault that kind of service!
From Alan Gibson:
2 pairs (4 wheels in all) G4842E LNER Y7 wheels
4M42A (crankpin set for 4 wheels)
4911 NER tapered buffers (or you can get LNER pattern ones, as fitted to some of the later builds)
4M637 Smokebox door dart x2 (you only need one, so you'll have a spare for when you buy a second Y7)
4M131 LBSC A1/A1X Terrier Coupling Rods (the Y7 has a 6' wheelbase, the terrier's is 6'+6', so just cut half the rods off. Gibson do supply variable length coupling rods which you can build to 6' as well, but I thought the terrier rods was the easiest option).
Other Parts:
Romford 1/8" frame bearings, and the holes in the frames are the correct size to take these as a tight push fit. they're pretty widely available (Mainly Trains for example have them).
0.5mm brass rod (used for handrails and sandpipes)
0.8mm brass rod (used for pipes to clack valves)
0.45mm handrail wire
00 handrail knobs
phosphor bronze wire for pickups.
scrap of PCB/copperclad strip for pickups
scrap brass etch/fret
Superglue - I use Screwfix's own brand as it is very cheap, works well and comes in big bottles. Feel free to use posh branded stuff though if you'd rather.
Gears/Motor
I used a chinese made 10x12mm (24mm long) gearmotor as they're cheap and have a high reduction. My prototype has a 298:1 gearmotor, which is probably overkill in the slow running department, but you can get the same size gearmotors with a variety of ratios (I have a more sensible 51:1 one on order). There are several suppilers of these, just make sure you get a 12V one. Mine came from fastcomponents on eBay and cost about £6 for a pair. They list them as 12mm miniature gearmotors.
Pair of 3mm bore Bevel Gears from Motionco (who stock an excellent range of interesting motors and gears). One of these gears should have the boss cut off behind the teeth (a quick cut with a razor saw) and then be bored out from 3mm to 1/8" (3.2mm) to be a tight push fit on the axle (an easy job with a set of cutting broaches or reamers).
There is a motor bracket printed into the chassis for one of these gearmotors and bevel gears which will hold it in the correct mesh. I used Loctite bearing compound to fix the gears to the motor shaft and axle ONCE FITTED TO THE CHASSIS! (make sure that they're in the right place and in mesh as you can't remove them afterwards). Use a pin to carefully apply a tiny amount of loctite - it wicks into joints and will lock things solid (pun not intended) if it gets where it isn't supposed to.
There is a motor bracket printed into the chassis for one of these gearmotors and bevel gears which will hold it in the correct mesh. I used Loctite bearing compound to fix the gears to the motor shaft and axle ONCE FITTED TO THE CHASSIS! (make sure that they're in the right place and in mesh as you can't remove them afterwards). Use a pin to carefully apply a tiny amount of loctite - it wicks into joints and will lock things solid (pun not intended) if it gets where it isn't supposed to.
If you wish to use a different motor/gearbox the distance between the frames is 10mm, so it will need to be one fo the narrower ones on the market. The motor bracket can be removed with a razor saw or scalpel quite easily if you're not using it and it is in the way.
Starting the build
With all Shapeways prints there may be some support material/wax on the parts. I wash it off with Isopropyl alcohol (using a £3 chinese ultrasonic denture cleaner I got off eBay, but a tothbrush would work fine) then give it a thorough rinse. This will make the print look more frosted and less translucent, don't worry!
The body and chassis are connected by 4 small sprues. Carefully cut these with a razor saw and file them completely flat.
Once separated, inside the chassis frames you will find the 4 brake shoes and the two clack valves for the boiler. Carefully cut those off their sprues and keep them in a safe place for later. There are several 0.5mm holes for brake rodding and sandpipes (in the underside of the 4 sandboxes).
The body is a push fit onto the chassis, located using the two pegs/notches behind the buffer beams at each end.
Test fit motor and gears - do not fit bearings/motor etc. until after giving the chassis a quick sand, a coat of primer, paint and matt varnish. The round cross member the motor rests on might need a little notch filed into it to seat the motor nicely. If using a different choice of motor/gears then you can carefully remove the motor bracket and round crossmember with a razor saw).
Working chassis - a quick sand, prime and paint, then bearings are pressed in (secured with a touch of superglue). Gearmotor is a push fit (though there are screw holes int he bracket, I didn't bother in the end as it fitted so securely).
Bevel gears were then loctited in place (making sure they're in mesh).
Wheels were quartered by eye, which wasn't that hard, but as the rear axle is driven by the rods you do need to accurately quarter it. Gibson's Rods and crankpins have good instructions with then which you should follow.
Pickups are made from phosphor bronze wire bent to scrape the back of the wheels.
At this point the major chassis work is done. The remaining bits are just detailing - use photos for reference. First of all put some thin rod (0.35 - 0.5mm rod) through the two holes in the chassis beside the wheels. This is for the brake shoe pivots. carefully drill out the holes in the brake shoes, then paint and varnish them. If the hole snaps on the shoes when drilling them out, don't worry too much. Fit the brake shoes to the rods using superglue (which will strengthen them and round up the ends if they snapped whilst you were drilling them out), then put the second rod through the bottom of each pair of shoes. carefully dab superglue onto the joint between rod and frames to hold them in place (they should be close to the wheels, but not touching the flanges or treads). further brake rodding can then be fitted and will strengthen things a little more.
Sandpipes should be bent up from 0.5mm rod. They fit into the pre printed holes in the bottom of each sandbox.
Guard Irons should be filed/bent up from scrap brass fret and glued onto the frames - refer to photos for the correct shape/positioning.
These wire/brass parts are much stronger and much finer than they would be if we attempted to 3D print those details on.
Sandpipes should be bent up from 0.5mm rod. They fit into the pre printed holes in the bottom of each sandbox.
Guard Irons should be filed/bent up from scrap brass fret and glued onto the frames - refer to photos for the correct shape/positioning.
These wire/brass parts are much stronger and much finer than they would be if we attempted to 3D print those details on.
Chassis done - make sure its painted up and give it a varnish! (Vallejo acrylic matt varnish is my favourite)
After having a quick play with your working chassis (shaky video here). Attention should turn to the body. Keep test fitting the body to the chassis. Paint will build up in the little notches/pegs, so scrape it off them if they don't fit properly.
The body MUST be prepared carefully (sand/prime/repeat) to remove any layering from the printing process (otherwise it'll look rubbish. Do not add any details until you're happy with the surface finish.
Although on other models I've used Gunze Mr Surfacer 1200, I've tried out something less exotic on this model and it has worked really well. The new secret weapon is Halfords Filler Primer (a 'lovely' mustardy colour it is too). You will also need some fine sandpaper (I use 1600 grit), and I have one of the sanding sponges from B&Q (the finest one they make) which I've cut bits off and glued them to bamboo skewers and cocktail sticks. I've also got some skewers which have 1600 grit glued onto the end. This array of home made sanding sticks allows you to smooth the underside of the boiler and other awkward bits. Be careful around the Safety Valves (remember FUD will stick nicely back together with superglue should you snap anything off). Sand it, give it a light waft of filler primer, sand it again, another quick spray (obviously letting it dry before sanding!) until you're happy. Once you're happy with the surface we can move on to the hardest bits of the bodywork.
The handrail knobs should fit into the pre printed holes (drill them out a touch if they don't). Boiler handrails should be made from rod/wire of between 0.35 - 0.45mm, your choice. I find the cab handrails are stronger with 0.5mm brass rod. Refer to photos as there are several variations on the blower vale on the upper smokebox sides (some just have the pipe going into the smokebox, some have a large round valve). There are also different patterns of the handrail on the smokebox front. With these locos being built over a long period of time, and having some alteration during their working lives you do need to refer to photos.
The rain strips on the cab roof are made from microstrip. Again there seems to be at least two patterns of these (compare the two preserved locos - they're both different). The loco currently at Beamish (985) has a vent in the roof. If you want to add one, it shouldn't be too hard to make one from plasticard.
The cab handrails are a problem. there is a very thin bit of metal connecting the top of the handrails to the cab sides. In 4mm/ft this would be paper thin. Therefore we use paper. plain computer paper cut into a strip about 1.2mm wide and 3cm long. this is coiled around a small screwdriver (you could of course use very thin annealed brass strip if you preferred, but paper is easier, and once the superglue has soaked into it and dried it is very hard).
The body MUST be prepared carefully (sand/prime/repeat) to remove any layering from the printing process (otherwise it'll look rubbish. Do not add any details until you're happy with the surface finish.
Although on other models I've used Gunze Mr Surfacer 1200, I've tried out something less exotic on this model and it has worked really well. The new secret weapon is Halfords Filler Primer (a 'lovely' mustardy colour it is too). You will also need some fine sandpaper (I use 1600 grit), and I have one of the sanding sponges from B&Q (the finest one they make) which I've cut bits off and glued them to bamboo skewers and cocktail sticks. I've also got some skewers which have 1600 grit glued onto the end. This array of home made sanding sticks allows you to smooth the underside of the boiler and other awkward bits. Be careful around the Safety Valves (remember FUD will stick nicely back together with superglue should you snap anything off). Sand it, give it a light waft of filler primer, sand it again, another quick spray (obviously letting it dry before sanding!) until you're happy. Once you're happy with the surface we can move on to the hardest bits of the bodywork.
The handrail knobs should fit into the pre printed holes (drill them out a touch if they don't). Boiler handrails should be made from rod/wire of between 0.35 - 0.45mm, your choice. I find the cab handrails are stronger with 0.5mm brass rod. Refer to photos as there are several variations on the blower vale on the upper smokebox sides (some just have the pipe going into the smokebox, some have a large round valve). There are also different patterns of the handrail on the smokebox front. With these locos being built over a long period of time, and having some alteration during their working lives you do need to refer to photos.
The rain strips on the cab roof are made from microstrip. Again there seems to be at least two patterns of these (compare the two preserved locos - they're both different). The loco currently at Beamish (985) has a vent in the roof. If you want to add one, it shouldn't be too hard to make one from plasticard.
The cab handrails are a problem. there is a very thin bit of metal connecting the top of the handrails to the cab sides. In 4mm/ft this would be paper thin. Therefore we use paper. plain computer paper cut into a strip about 1.2mm wide and 3cm long. this is coiled around a small screwdriver (you could of course use very thin annealed brass strip if you preferred, but paper is easier, and once the superglue has soaked into it and dried it is very hard).
Push a length of 0.5mm brass rod through the pre printed hole in the footplate. Once it's through, use a pin to put a little blob of superglue on the end, then press it up into the paper level with the top of the tanks. repeat for the other side (this should leave the paper with a small radiused corner.
Once the cab handrails are in place, use the pin to wipe another bit of superglue over the paper. Once that soaks in and dries it'll harden the paper up. Trim it back with small scissors.
The smokebox dart is then fitted, followed by the buffer shanks (following the Gibson instructions). There are circular rebates in the bufferbeams for these to fit into.
Carefully drill out the clack valves to fit on a 0.8mm brass rod, then fit into the holes printed in the boiler, the pipes to them are bent up from 0.8mm brass rod (you will need to refer to photos again - there are differences in how they bend and go down to footplate level).
At this stage the only remaining detail is the brake standard in the cab. Sadly this would be too fragile to print, so I sourced one from the spares box (I think it's from a Dapol kit, but it looks OK). You can also get nice ones from several of the suppliers mentioned earlier, or make one from brass rod/tube and styrene. Looking at photos you can see where it fits onto the cab rear. There is a 0.5mm hole in the backhead to fit the regulator handle into. This is just bent up from some 0.5mm brass rod. Coupling hooks are again from the spares box, but are also available from most detail parts suppliers.
Rivets are luckily few and far between on the Y7. Either use the excellent Archer transfers (H0 size - put a coat of Klear on the surface first, and seal them on afterwards with another coat) or use Evo-Stik wood glue dotted on with a 0.5mm rod. Again refer to photos (differences between locos), but the main areas of rivets seem to be along the base of the smokebox, the cab back, the base of the chimney and above and below the spectacle plates.
After that, stick a rolled up plug of toilet roll in each buffer shank and paint the body your colour of choice (mine is Halfords Matt Black, then bufferbeams are undercoated with Citadel/GW Macharius Solar Orange Foundation, followed by a few coats of humbrol bufferbeam red, with Valleho Brass for the appropriate parts). I used PC models transfers (a coat of Klear on the sidetanks and bufferbeams before and after decalling). A coat of Vallejo Acrylic Matt Varnish all over, then put the whistle on (I made the whistle from 0.5mm rod, with a notch cut in it with a scalpel). Buffers are then added following the Gibson instructions.
Rivets are luckily few and far between on the Y7. Either use the excellent Archer transfers (H0 size - put a coat of Klear on the surface first, and seal them on afterwards with another coat) or use Evo-Stik wood glue dotted on with a 0.5mm rod. Again refer to photos (differences between locos), but the main areas of rivets seem to be along the base of the smokebox, the cab back, the base of the chimney and above and below the spectacle plates.
After that, stick a rolled up plug of toilet roll in each buffer shank and paint the body your colour of choice (mine is Halfords Matt Black, then bufferbeams are undercoated with Citadel/GW Macharius Solar Orange Foundation, followed by a few coats of humbrol bufferbeam red, with Valleho Brass for the appropriate parts). I used PC models transfers (a coat of Klear on the sidetanks and bufferbeams before and after decalling). A coat of Vallejo Acrylic Matt Varnish all over, then put the whistle on (I made the whistle from 0.5mm rod, with a notch cut in it with a scalpel). Buffers are then added following the Gibson instructions.
Both preserved locos were at the tanfield railway last september
David Ford has some excellent photos on his Flickr account, and has kindly given permission for me to put a couple on here. Fortunately there are quite a few photos available online of both preserved and working locos.